FAQ - Enquiry Form
Need help completing our Enquiry Form?
Below we’ll answer some of the most common questions we get about filling out the enquiry form, but if there is anything else you’re unclear of just give us a shout; every vehicle is different, and there is no such thing as a stupid question.
Where possible, completing the form electronically and emailing it to us in a Microsoft Excel compatible format will save time processing your case.
We have additional FAQs regarding the supporting information needed to accompany your enquiry form here.
This should be a nice easy one to start with, it’s just your name and address.
If the person requesting the change is not named on the logbook, for instance if the vehicle is owned by your company, just let us know in the notes section [H].
Right, it's getting a bit trickier here - we need all the make and model details of your vehicle, these should all be on the first inside page of your V5c (logbook).
Time to get your tape measure out - let’s go and measure your vehicle. These measurements are for us to ensure you’re within the legal footprint of a vehicle of its weight, but also to be able to calculate the changes in its centre of gravity.
You’re going to be measuring the total length, the wheelbase (wheel centre to wheel centre down the side of the van), the track (the outside of one wheel to the other across the width of the vehicle), and the rear overhang (from the centre of the back wheels to where your tow bar would be).
Before you put your tape measure away make sure to test how long you can make it before it pings and flops, and then reel it all in fast whilst panicking you’re going to cut your finger on its rusty edge.
Now we are going to see how heavy your vehicle was allowed to be from the factory - to do this we need to find the Weight Plate. These have to be attached to the cab of the vehicle, but can be in either of the front door apertures, or under the bonnet.
Some vehicles are built in stages, for example motorhomes or ambulances, so you might have one plate provided by the vehicle manufacturer of the chassis (e.g. Mercedes or Fiat) and then a second one by the coach builder of the motorhome body. Some lucky folks even have a third if the weight has been changed after this and they’ve forgotten to remove the old one. If in doubt send us a photo of every plate you can find, and we’ll sort out which is which.
These next three sections are probably the most technical bits we’ll ask you to provide. We need to know all about your suspension. Don’t worry if you don’t know all of the terms for the different types, you’re going to take a load of photos anyway, but below we’ll highlight the most common ones.
These are probably the oldest type of suspension, and consist of steel strips in a bow formation. They should be more “u” shaped than flat or “n” shaped, like shown. we’ll need to know many “leaves” you have got.
These are cheap, compact, and allow a lower rear floor, making them a very common choice for the rear suspension of a motorhomes. However, when overloaded they can be too close to the chassis of the vehicle, and the suspension compressed to such a degree that you’re effectively riding on the bump stops (the rubber blocks that prevent metal clashing with metal). Not only is this a MOT fail, but it means that your vehicle lacks the compliance over bumps in the road which can lead to a catastrophic failure of the body structure. We’ll need photos showing this distance (and a note on whether the vehicle is loaded or not).
Almost every passenger vehicle on the planet features McPherson strut front suspension, being a coiled spring (usually wrapped around a damper). It’s cheap, robust, versatile, easily serviced, and handles whatever most roads can throw at them. However as they are much more tailored to each vehicle they can be far more expensive and complex to upgrade should you have overloaded the front axle. If you’ve been smart (or had guidance from us early on in your conversion) you’ll be trying to keep all of your additional weight to the rear axle, so hopefully we won’t need to be changing these. We’ll need photos of them either way.
Originally the preserve of luxury cars like Rolls-Royce, these have now become popular on 44 tonne HGVs and increasingly found on campervans and motorhomes. Chances are if you’ve already got a set of these installed you are already equipped for increase weight, but we will still need to check on their specification and weight rating. These are a common addition to existing suspension set-ups to give additional load carrying capability.
There are other types of suspension available, such as DeDion axles, hydrolastic bulbs, trailing arms, multi-link rears etc. but if you’re in any doubt, just send us lots of photos.
One of the most critical parts of the load carrying capability of your vehicle, and one of the most easily overlooked, are the wheels and tyres. We need to know what they’re made of (the wheels that is; the tyres are usually a rubber compound unless you’re converting a medieval horse and cart), how many of them there are, and all of the information from off the side of each of your tyres (don’t forget the spare).
This is your last job while you’re scrabbling around under your vehicle with photos and measurements, we promise!
We need the details of your braking system, the key ones being the type and size.
Almost all vehicles have disc brakes at the front, we need the diameter of them, the thickness of the disc, and is it ventilated or solid (does it look like it’s made out of two layers, like a custard cream or is it solid like a digestive?) This is usually easier if you turn your steering wheel hard to one side and are able to reach around behind the wheel.
Rear brakes can be discs or drums (measurements not needed for drums). Your handbrake is almost always operating the rear brakes, this is more of a question for multi axle HGV changes.
You’re all done with the climbing around under your vehicle, you’ve done a brilliant job, and saved yourself a lot of time and money bringing your vehicle for an inspection. You’ve earned yourself a brew and a biscuit (weirdly we’ve now got a hankering for a custard cream or a digestive…)
This is the most valuable section in our opinion, this is your space to tell us all about your vehicle, your conversion, what modifications you’ve already done, or are wanting to do with it, etc; the more information you can give the better.
If you’ve already been to the weighbridge this space is ideal to outline what condition your vehicle was weighed in; for example:-
“We weighed the campervan, I was in the driving seat, no passengers (two empty seats), I had ¼ tank of diesel, the 90L water tank was full, but the 75L grey tank was empty. The camper conversion was all installed, but we haven’t loaded up with food and possessions yet.”
Using this information, in combination with the rest of the form, we can calculate the weight capacity you’re going to need before coming up with a strategy to get you the weight allowance you want.
Phew, you made it to the end of the form, well done; you’ve just got a tick box check list to make sure you’ve included everything we need, or if there is further information and photos to follow.